Frankenjura

I don’t believe that the Frankenjura needs any introduction… As a sport-climbing venue it has been on the map since decades thanks to climbers like Güllich, Albert, Sykora, Löw, Thon, and many more.

Located in the southeast of Germany, it’s only a six-hours drive from where my girlfriend and I live. Just perfect! After our ten-months trip to Spain last year we didn’t want to go far this year.

So we started our trip in Munich where the World Championship in Bouldering took place. Although I’ve seen a couple of World Cups in Vienna during the last years, I had never seen Adam Ondra climb in real life. Take it from me: to see him take the title –controlling his mind and body like that- it was just unreal. Un altro planeta. At the women’s Jule Wurm took the title on home-soil… and the crowd roared…

Great atmosphere, catching up with friends from all over Europe; it was a wonderful evening.

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After that we dashed to the centre of the Frankenjura, where we rented a place close to Pottenstein. Time to get our hands on some rock!

In short; we had a good trip. The weather wasn’t always on our side, but with three 8c’s climbed, I feel like we’ve got value for our money.

I climbed the ultra-short “Downset” quite fast, the steep resistance-route “Steinbock” and the atypical roof called “Roof Warrior”. Perhaps more would have been in the cards, but as mentioned before, you have to deal with the weather you get and from the third day onwards I was forced to take the holds a bit inventive due to popped index fingers.

At first, when I was standing underneath “Downset”, it looked impossible. But after a while I was able to make all the moves, which aren’t more than just a handful. I took a rest day and the next day I was able to send it first try of the day. Seems that the training and bouldering before paid off!

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“Steinbock” was a different story. It’s a looking fantastic route, a steep piece of rock packed with pockets, no really hard moves, but surely enough of them. Like most roof-climbs it’s quite technical with subtle heel- and toe-hooks. I fell on the last move on the day I climbed “Downset”, but being that close so soon wasn’t very helpful. It’s a paradox, I know, but my head often reacts quite weirdly in a sabotaging way. In the end it took more tries than it should have, but with the moral support of the enthusiastic local climber Nico and the always helping talk from Benny (Wataaah!) I was able to finish “Steinbock” as well!

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Enter the rain… We spent almost a week driving around; looking for dry routes to try, visiting neighbouring cities; we even went to the bouldering gym Café Kraft once.

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In the last week I still wanted to try and climb a route called “Odd Fellows”, but with a battered left index finger I could only have one good go a day. Knowing that I could only try it once felt a bit too pressuring to me. (on a side note: the right index finger healed quickly, the left never did…)

The day I left “Odd Fellows” for what it was, we bumped into Nico again and we ended up underneath “Roof Warrior”, a route that I tried earlier. This time I got lucky! Despite the rain from the week before it was dryer than ever. I took off just to try the moves again and surprised myself by clipping the chain.

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All in all it was a successful trip and apart from those 8c’s I was able to send a bunch of 8a and b’s at high pace. Frankenjura is great and I can’t wait to go back!

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