New Orleans Heavy Weight Division

After my trip to Magic Wood I swapped my pad for a rope again and went to the Frankenjura. It has been quite a while since my last visit to the old area. This time Nina came along, her first visit to the Frankenjura. We got the idea of going there from a friend, Bram aka “Junior” aka “Belgians strongest fingers”, who’s lately my partner in crime when it comes to hanging around in hard routes.


He had this project in the Frankenjura called “New Orleans Heavy Weight Division” on the Endorama crag, so I just tagged along. The first day it rained all day, but in the evening we still decided to check it out. The last four meters were soaked, leaving the rock covered in a slippery black film (water and lichen are just a winning combination). Still, the crux was at the bottom of the route, so we tried some moves anyway.


Bram went first, showing me all the methods. Then I had my go, warming up from bolt to bolt, trying his methods. Bram again: went through the crux like butter, “shall I continue?” he asked whilst hanging on a crimp, gobsmacked I yelled: “Yes, you fool! Finish it!”

With the final hold in hand he slipped off… with dripping wet shoes and hands. Right, I went, my second go (!), made it through the crux as well. Continued with a good pace and there I went; with my nose at the chain and water running down my arms. It would have been to good to be true.

The next day we warmed up, Junior climbed it a wee bit nervous in his first go of the day. Slightly nervous as I was I did the same… Beers earned!